Day 6

The slow air conditioner is actually a no air conditioner. It doesn’t even sound or feel like the compressor is running outside our window, which we left open all night long so we wouldn’t suffocate and roast.  

All of my laundry stayed on the clothesline all night drying, but in the morning it was still wet. Really the only option I had was to wear it, because I had nothing else to wear. It dried out pretty quickly. Everything else I bagged up in the plastic grocery bag from the Russian place yesterday and stuffed in my backpack. Hopefully I can dry it all tonight. 

I’ve learned tha laundry really needs to be done every night or every other night at the absolute longest. Any more than that, I run out of room on the line and risk stuff not being dry. Even though it’s inconvenient to do every night, it’s a lot easier to deal with one complete set of clothes than with three. Also, if you do too many at a time, the wash water gets dirty by the time you are finishing up the last items. 

I’d love to hear any suggestions on hand washing and drying techniques that work well.

I forgot to mention that we went to the Pantheon yesterday. It was amazing and is a must-visit. Go when they open… You have nearly the whole place to yourself. 
 
The Hotel Ideal’s shower situation wasn’t. Half of the shower door was missing, and most of the shower had mildew in it. The shower head provided a gentle trickle of water, emphasis on “gentle” and “trickle.”

Regardless, they nearly redeemed themselves (or at least got out of the negatives) for breakfast. They had free freshly-made cappuccino, pastries, cereal, and some strawberryish concoction as a beverage. The milk was served at room temperature, which makes for an interesting cereal experience. 

We hopped on the train for Herculaneum afterward, and bought our tickets for the Vesuvius Espress, which is a little guy in a van with 10 touristas. Since the VE didn’t leave for about 30 minutes, we walked around town, and I found a bancomat (ATM), which I desperately needed. I brought some cash with me so I could avoid the currency exchanges in the airport and in Rome, but I didn’t want so much that I or my bags would be a target for theft. Turns out that the bancomat didn’t even charge me a fee! Woohoo UniCredit Banca in Herculaneum!

Next, we boarded the VE with caution. It was this trip that really brought home Italian driving and revealed the the Top 10 Italian Rules of the Road to  a mere American (see below). 
 
Vesuvius is breathtaking, much like the VE up and down the volcano. There is a light breeze that wafts the scent of millions of little yellow flowers through the cool, crisp air. 

I took my backpack up to the top with me to burn some extra calories, and to avoid leaving it at the VE “station.” I carried it with me all day… that’s everything I brought on this trip that I packed around all day. There is one of the primary virtues of traveling light. I didn’t have to worry about luggage storage or anything else. 

We made a lengthy trek up to the crater of Vesuvius. It’s a good thing my shoes were gray when I brought them. Everybody else’s white sneakers are now the color of mine. Speaking of shoes, I’ve nearly walked the soles off of these. Definitely due for a new pair when I return. Looking down into the crater is one of those experiences that you don’t really forget. 

It’s gorgeous and terrifying rolled into one. All of the flora and fauna there… and in the surrounding cities… Completely obliterated by the long-overdue eruption. What happens when the inevitable occurs? Nobody has a plan. Then again, maybe that is because there is nothing to do other than run like hell and pray. It brings a new meaning to “ticking time bomb.”

Unrivaled doom, despair, demolition, death, and destruction.

We then took a 1-car train to Salerno (1 car, 1 locomotive). We arrived at 5:25, but the 5:30 bus had already left. We had to wait until 6:30 to catch the bus, but we met a delightful Russian couple from St. Petersburg. We finally arrived in Maiori, and met Antonio, who took us to our room… up many, many stairs.  Our current accomodations are far above and beyond anything we have had to date. The room and view are stunning, and he asked before he left if we preferred red or white wine. He brought us a bottle of red with 3 glasses and a corkscrew! “My gift,” he said. 

No wireless, so we are about to go down all of the stairs and try to hunt some food and some free Wi-Fi to make calls home and for me to post.

We had pizza at Europizza #14. It was wonderful. We had heard strange noises since getting here; turns out they were fireworks that we watched over the water before calling it a night.

No plans for tomorrow. We don’t even have to get up early! This place is really a little jewel that tourism hasn’t corrupted. Pizza on the main drag was even cheap. 

Until tomorrow!   

With no further ado:   
Top 10 Italian Rules of the Road:
1) Speed is the object. Turns, even see-your-own-taillights mountain switchbacks should be taken as quickly as possible, whether ascending or descending.
1a) If you can’t hear your tires screeching on turns and curves, then speed up. This is an audible indicator that you are following speed guidelines.
2) Honk when going around a curve so people know you are there. Don’t think about slowing down if it’s a blind turn. Honk, and see #1a. 
3) Honk at random passersby that look like someone you know. When they look up, speed on and don’t acknowledge them.
4) Honk at other cars if they aren’t driving EXACTLY how you think they should be driving. Punctuate honks with hearty Italian discourse. 
5) Get a head start on the traffic light when you think it’s going to turn green. If it stays red, don’t worry. Everybody else will follow you.
5a) Stop signs=yield on a bad day, GO on a good one. 
6) Honk.    
7) Talking to people that you know in cars going the opposite direction is encouraged. Stick your head out and talk, but don’t dare slow down. 
8) Follow six feet, plus or minus a foot, from other vehicles. Motorcycles and mopeds, closer. Any longer distances do not make efficient use of road space. 
9) Pass in curves. It’s the only safe place to do so. Just be sure to honk so they know you are coming. 
10) Lanes usually aren’t marked. Use this to your advantage.   
Bonus:
11) If you can’t find a parking spot, make your own! Double-parking is efficiency. If the other person wants out, they’ll honk.

Oh, but there is more. Stay tuned when I get home for an AUDIO POST of the sounds of Italy, including an example of Italian driving that follows all of the 10 Rules.